I dont know about the terms of this company, but the term thick/thin does also apply to wooden headjoints.
however it isnt usually called 'thinwall' they are usually called something like 'thinned' headjoints. Basically, they will cut the headjoint so it will look like a large wooden tube with a hole in it that is the headjoint. It will look huge on a flute. Then, If they thin it, they will carve away at the wood, thin it down, and carve out a lipplate that comes up from the tube. A thinned headjoint looks a lot like a normal headjoint. a non thinned headjoint looks a lot like a standard wooden piccolo headjoint. They also thin piccolo headjoints sometimes, but I dont think this is done very often.
I know that you can find good pictures of these two different kinds of headjoints at http://www.robinsonflutes.com
thick wall/thin wall
Moderators: Classitar, pied_piper, Phineas
Orpheus Flutes
Hi Briolette;
The flute I ordered came with the American Style Modern Cut headjoint. That means the headjoint has a gradual taper from the tenon to the end cap with a sculpted lip. There is no "bulb" at the tenon area. The main issue to consider is the cut of the headjoint. The American Cut wood headjoint that came with my instrument has suprised me. I recently played the Honegger, King David oratorio. EVERYONE was impressed with the sound of this instrument, and I was happy with the response and reliability.
I treat the wood with a combination of penetrating bore oil by Yamaha and drying almond oil -tough to find. The major issue is this, oil will fill the surface pores, and that's about it. African Blackwood can soak in oil for years, and dry wood remains just below the surface. I have a violetwood flute. Just as Grenadilla, this is a Dalbergia species. Hard, and tough to penetrate. I recomend using a good quality bore oil, such as Yamaha, in a LIGHT coat, every two weeks or so. DO NOT let condensation set in the instrument. Always swab the bore before letting the instrument set in a flute stand, and NEVER put the instrument away without a complete swabbing.
I wish you luck with your instrument. Mine arrived in about two months. And, it was worth the wait. Have fun.
The flute I ordered came with the American Style Modern Cut headjoint. That means the headjoint has a gradual taper from the tenon to the end cap with a sculpted lip. There is no "bulb" at the tenon area. The main issue to consider is the cut of the headjoint. The American Cut wood headjoint that came with my instrument has suprised me. I recently played the Honegger, King David oratorio. EVERYONE was impressed with the sound of this instrument, and I was happy with the response and reliability.
I treat the wood with a combination of penetrating bore oil by Yamaha and drying almond oil -tough to find. The major issue is this, oil will fill the surface pores, and that's about it. African Blackwood can soak in oil for years, and dry wood remains just below the surface. I have a violetwood flute. Just as Grenadilla, this is a Dalbergia species. Hard, and tough to penetrate. I recomend using a good quality bore oil, such as Yamaha, in a LIGHT coat, every two weeks or so. DO NOT let condensation set in the instrument. Always swab the bore before letting the instrument set in a flute stand, and NEVER put the instrument away without a complete swabbing.
I wish you luck with your instrument. Mine arrived in about two months. And, it was worth the wait. Have fun.
