Repair of nicks and dents - photo attached

[flutego12]

I've finally found my first flute project. It plays well, pads have some life left and seal.

Cosmetically, it has 3 small dents (shown) - here they are:

1) small dent high on headjoint
2) similar small dent as 1) low on middle joint
3) a shallow longish (eliptical) 7-8(L) x1.5-2(W) mm dent along length of middle joint beneath low E key

Q is to fix or not to fix. Don't want to make it worse.

[Zevang]

Of course, fix it!

A complete polishing after dent removal will do the job properly.

I think it is well worth.

[flutego12]

Of course, fix it!

A complete polishing after dent removal will do the job properly.

I think it is well worth.

Hello Zevang

Thank you for replying.

This flute is at least 10-12yo and is plated. I would guess quite a lot of silver may have been polished off already. So polishing is ok but bufffing is not? I do not want to expose the metal underneath (nickel silver). What is ok what is not? What would you do? When you say complete polishing did you mean machine or hand (cloth/polish) and if machine what is the set up?

Which mandrel and hammer size/side should i use?

I've read somewhere to hammer around the dent but the dent here is tiny that if not done properly it could cause ripples which apparently can be ... burnished off? can't find that blog. can I do that on plated w/o making it worse. I should probably find an unplayable flute to do on in case i stuff it up.

[mirwa]

Some times you have to make it look worse to make it better.

Ive attached a link for a trumpet example.

The process is still the same.

http://www.ultrainspections.com/Dent_Repairs_Brass.html

You need a mandrel for the headjoint, you need a rawhide hammer, you need a small burnisher, you need a small roller, then you need to be able to lightly buff the surface and surrounding areas

Steve

[mirwa]

I found some old photos on my computer, I mean these are old

[mirwa]

A mandrel, a rawhide hammer, a roller, and a few minutes later

[mirwa]

Moral of the story, yes it can be done quite easily.

The trick is knowing when to stop, if you have damaged metal - then its has been stretched, you are trying to fit that stretched metal back into a place where it cannot fit, so its about knowing how to work manipulate hide blend the area.

If you over work the damage you will make it thinner and thereby make an egg shape happen in the area. Its about knowing when to stop..

[Zevang]

Hello Zevang
Thank you for replying.
Welcome
This flute is at least 10-12yo and is plated. I would guess quite a lot of silver may have been polished off already. So polishing is ok but bufffing is not? I do not want to expose the metal underneath (nickel silver). What is ok what is not? What would you do? When you say complete polishing did you mean machine or hand (cloth/polish) and if machine what is the set up?
I don't think using a machine would be a problem. Just keep in mind that you cannot use Tripoli intensively since this one could really wear off the plating, although it's capable of removing most scratches. Use only Rouge for final polishing to make sure that the plating will still be there.
Which mandrel and hammer size/side should i use?
I only have one body mandrel and one headjoint mandrel. They should do.
I'd use a roller. The hammer only for small little and final corrections. I've just bought a straight roller and I already had a concave one. Both are interesting for this job.

I've read somewhere to hammer around the dent but the dent here is tiny that if not done properly it could cause ripples which apparently can be ... burnished off? can't find that blog. can I do that on plated w/o making it worse. I should probably find an unplayable flute to do on in case i stuff it up.
Burnishing is ok too. I think both burnishers and hammers can be used to finish the work. Then, later polishing will remove any minor marks left.

[flutego12]

Some times you have to make it look worse to make it better.

Ive attached a link for a trumpet example.

The process is still the same.

http://www.ultrainspections.com/Dent_Repairs_Brass.html

You need a mandrel for the headjoint, you need a rawhide hammer, you need a small burnisher, you need a small roller, then you need to be able to lightly buff the surface and surrounding areas

Steve

Amazing. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the comprehensive illustration, Steve. Really appreciate it.
For mandrels & burnishers - are they one size fits all flutes or do you have to have the whole set? What do you use to buff?

[flutego12]

Polisher: What about Wenol? I was told to get the "just" silver one as others might be too abrasive.
Hammer, Mandrels & Roller: Did you purchase JL Smith's. By roller did you mean burnisher?
Buffing: I've seen people use a thin strip and polish it like shining a shoe

I suppose a giant clamp is key also.

[Zevang]

Polisher: What about Wenol? I was told to get the "just" silver one as others might be too abrasive.
Actually, I don't know this one
Hammer, Mandrels & Roller: Did you purchase JL Smith's. By roller did you mean burnisher?
I have a Hammer from JL. Mandrels and Rollers from Ferree's. And I just bought one straight roller from a Brazilian manufacturer, just to experiment and see what is our level on tool precision. The burnisher has two handles and a fixed metal bar on the middle. The roller also has two handles, just that there is a rod with a rolling part on the middle. They are different.
At ferree's website (http://www.ferreestools.com) take a look at their complete online catalog and look for P2-10 rollers. Also take a look at the flute mandrels.
Buffing: I've seen people use a thin strip and polish it like shining a shoe
Yes, can be done this way

I suppose a giant clamp is key also.
Usually not. If you use mandrels, drill a hole on the bench big enough so you insert the free end of the mandrel inside.

[mirwa]

Amazing. For mandrels & burnishers - are they one size fits all flutes or do you have to have the whole set? What do you use to buff?

Yes one mandrel pretty well fits everything.

Again, its knowing what to do, you dont want to reshape the piece your working on to the shape of the mandrel, you want to use the mandrel as a back up surface for the pressure your going to apply on the outside to reshape the area of concern

[mirwa]

Amazing. For mandrels & burnishers - are they one size fits all flutes or do you have to have the whole set? What do you use to buff?

A burnisher is merely something to rub or ""burnish"" the surface with, you can burnish the surface with anything be it round, angled / square etc, you can use wood, steel, brass or anything you have handy, ive even burnished a surface with a cake of soap, its looking at what the problem is and having a plan of attack.

[flutego12]

Amazing. For mandrels & burnishers - are they one size fits all flutes or do you have to have the whole set? What do you use to buff?

A burnisher is merely something to rub or ""burnish"" the surface with, you can burnish the surface with anything be it round, angled / square etc, you can use wood, steel, brass or anything you have handy, ive even burnished a surface with a cake of soap, its looking at what the problem is and having a plan of attack.

That's the beauty of creative craftsmanship Thanks so much for sharing. Are there any flutes beyond help, I wonder. Fear not skillful restoration at hand.

[flutego12]

Amazing. For mandrels & burnishers - are they one size fits all flutes or do you have to have the whole set? What do you use to buff?

Yes one mandrel pretty well fits everything. Very thankful to hear that. They are v expensive.

Again, its knowing what to do, you dont want to reshape the piece your working on to the shape of the mandrel, you want to use the mandrel as a back up surface for the pressure your going to apply on the outside to reshape the area of concern