Would a better flute be easier to play?

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nix
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:09 am

Would a better flute be easier to play?

Post by nix »

Hi,
I am currently playing a buescher student flute and I am having trouble with mid octave B, C and above, sometimes good other times hard to hit cleanly. I am thinking of getting a step up flute (possibly Yamaha 311) could a better flute make these notes more consistant. Or is it just a case of more practise?
Thanks
Nix

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flutepicc06
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Post by flutepicc06 »

Actually, as you go higher in the range of flutes, they generally become more difficult to play, but also much more rewarding to play once you learn to handle a better crafted instrument. This is because manufacturers don't have to build them to be forgiving of the mistakes that beginners might make, so they require a more accurate and focused airstream, are often more resistant (though this is not always the case), etc. I don't know what kind of condition your Buescher is in, but damage of one sort or another could very well be contributing to any problems you're having. I would recommend taking it to a repair tech first. If that doesn't uncover any issues, try playing someone else's flute (one of decent quality that you know is in good woking order) and see if you have the same difficulties. If you don't, the flute could very well be the issue, but if you still can't get those notes to speak right, then you still have some work you can do before spending additional money on an instrument. If you do decide to buy a new instrument, you can save some money by buying a 200 series Yamaha. They're of the same design as the 300's, but are plated rather than using solid silver (which won't make much, if any, difference). The cut of the heads on the 200's is even the same as the 300's, meaning that they play and sound much the same.

nix
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Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:09 am

Post by nix »

Thanks for the reply. I've tried to have my buescher checked but all the tech did was oil and rebalance the mech. It's an old flute (15yrs) but has not been played alot.
My friend said she'll lend me here 211. The only reason I was considering the 311 is because a local music shop said the 211 wasn't any improvement on what I had and that the 311 would sound better due to the solid head (I don't know how knowledgable he was, I would have tried before buying though).
Also my friend (the owner of the 211) has her uk grade 8 and found the high notes (third octave a and above) difficult on my flute, but not hers.
My flute doesn't seem to tune, I though this might be its age so I don't mind buying a new one, but I don't want to spend more than about £600 (approx $1000).

Thanks
Nix

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flutepicc06
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Post by flutepicc06 »

nix wrote:The only reason I was considering the 311 is because a local music shop said the 211 wasn't any improvement on what I had and that the 311 would sound better due to the solid head (I don't know how knowledgable he was, I would have tried before buying though).
Unfortunately he either wasn't terribly knowledgeable and was just spouting the same marketing spiel that most makers do, or he was intentionally misleading you. Looking only at the specifications of the flutes, there's little or no difference, but you most likely will notice a significant difference when you play them, as the Yamaha is of a different standard of design and craftsmanship. The design (geometry of the embouchure hole, taper, riser height, etc.) of the head is far more important to the sound(s) that you can produce than the material. Both the 200's and 300's have the CY headjoint as their standard, though in different materials. To get a noticeable change from the 200's, you have to go all the way to a 500 series or higher, where the EC head becomes the standard.
My flute doesn't seem to tune
Pitch is determined primarily by the player (it's not terribly difficult to change pitch 1/2 step or more using just your airstream). Try to set the octave length by playing a low C, and then lifting your thumb. If the pitches match without you manipulating the pitch at all, leave the head where it is, but if they don't, then go ahead and adjust it until they do. That should set the flute up so that the scale is at its best (the most notes will be the most in tune naturally). From there, any alterations to pitch that are necessary should be done by raising (to sharpen pitch) and lowering (to flatten pitch) the airstream.

Now, if you do end up buying a new flute, make sure to playtest all of your options before money changes hands. The 311 may be one option, but there are several other good quality flutes in the same price range that you should look into as well.

fluteguy18
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Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:11 pm

Post by fluteguy18 »

flutepicc06 wrote:Actually, as you go higher in the range of flutes, they generally become more difficult to play, but also much more rewarding to play once you learn to handle a better crafted instrument. This is because manufacturers don't have to build them to be forgiving of the mistakes that beginners might make, so they require a more accurate and focused airstream, are often more resistant (though this is not always the case), etc. I don't know what kind of condition your Buescher is in, but damage of one sort or another could very well be contributing to any problems you're having. I would recommend taking it to a repair tech first. If that doesn't uncover any issues, try playing someone else's flute (one of decent quality that you know is in good woking order) and see if you have the same difficulties. If you don't, the flute could very well be the issue, but if you still can't get those notes to speak right, then you still have some work you can do before spending additional money on an instrument. If you do decide to buy a new instrument, you can save some money by buying a 200 series Yamaha. They're of the same design as the 300's, but are plated rather than using solid silver (which won't make much, if any, difference). The cut of the heads on the 200's is even the same as the 300's, meaning that they play and sound much the same.
I agree. When I upgraded to my Miya, even though it responded a lot better [response was much faster, less resistance, but no matter how much I push, I cant break the note....] it is more difficult to play. It takes more control, and often, less is more when I play it. So, an upgrade might or might not be the right thing to do.


Your tuning issue could possible be due to an old, and poorly designed scale. But, usually a player can compensate these sort of things [unless it is a junker flute bought for about $5 USD on ebay]. If you do decide to upgrade, then I definately recommend trying everything in your price range. I also recommend taking your time in making the decision so A: you have time to save up more money to allow more options [even though you only wanted to spend about 1000 USD, the more money you have, the more options you have], and B: you can be absolutely sure that you want to upgrade, and that the maker/model you have selected are a good fit for you as a player.

nix
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:09 am

Post by nix »

Thanks again for all the tips. Is there really no difference between the silverplated headjoint and the silver headjoint? If not I will definaltly look at the Yamaha 211. Also can you recommend other makes and models to look out for?

Thanks again

Nix

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flutepicc06
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Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 11:34 pm

Post by flutepicc06 »

nix wrote:Thanks again for all the tips. Is there really no difference between the silverplated headjoint and the silver headjoint? If not I will definaltly look at the Yamaha 211. Also can you recommend other makes and models to look out for?

Thanks again

Nix
It's impossible to say definitively that there's NO difference (as we can't yet eliminate all variables except for material), but the difference between materials is extremely minute (to the point that lots of players can't hear it at all). One study even showed that an audience blind to what the flutist was playing couldn't hear the difference between a concrete flute and one made of metal. Feel free to try both heads, but IMO, the extra cost is not warranted.

If you can give us a general idea of your budget, and any specs you have in mind we can almost certainly help you out with suggestions of makes and models that might fit your needs.

nix
Posts: 10
Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 2:09 am

Post by nix »

I can only really justify spending a maximum of £600 ($1000). At the moment I favour the off set G, closed holes and I think I would like split E. Other than that I am openminded. I have returned to playing the flute after a 15yr gap (I was never very good). I feel I am progressing quickly but will only ever play for pleasure or maybe with a local group. I want a flute that will allow me to improve without holding me back.

Many thanks again

Nix

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