pearl flutes
Moderators: Classitar, pied_piper, Phineas
pearl flutes
I'm about to purchase a Pearl 665RB Quantz Series Flute. After educating myself on the features of this particular model, I find it to be a good investment. I test played one at a local music store. I really love the quick response and intonation.
Will any Pearl Flute owners please give me some feedback on their flutes? I'm hoping someone can give me some pros and cons as to owning this brand (and this specific model as well).
Thank You!
Will any Pearl Flute owners please give me some feedback on their flutes? I'm hoping someone can give me some pros and cons as to owning this brand (and this specific model as well).
Thank You!
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- Posts: 2311
- Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:11 pm
I personally don't own this brand of flute, but I know a few people who do. Overall, the people I know who own them seem to love them. They generally stay in adjustment fairly well, and have a good even sound. The only problems I have seen people have with them is a matter of sticky pads, and occasionally the mechanism binds because the oil dries out. But both of these problems are easily avoided with regular maintanence [niether of these individuals mentioned would get their yearly Clean Oil and Adjust].
If you like it, and it is a reputable dealer, I would say go for it!
If you like it, and it is a reputable dealer, I would say go for it!
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- Posts: 882
- Joined: Fri Dec 10, 2004 11:05 pm
I did own a Pearl at one time, and several of my students and former students have owned them. They seem to hold up pretty well, with a few exceptions. As fluteguy18 said, they do need yearly COA, as any flute does. That will definately make the difference. I do have one student whose C# trill key has given her a problem from the beginning, but I think it is just a freak thing and would not hesitate to recommend the flute.
Re: pearl flutes
I have owned and played a Pearl Elegant for about 5 years or so. I have had no problems with it, no binding action, nothing. Well, my pads were a bit tacky when it first came out of the box but that went away with playing- I never had to clean the pads. My bad -it has not been back for a COA since I bought it- but still it plays on. I keep it clean and treat it well and it has performed well for me. Each head joint cut has its own characteristics and it took me awhile to get low C and B reliably but that was my problem. I hope you will be as happy with your flute as I have been with mine. Congrats and enjoy.
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- Posts: 36
- Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2007 7:10 pm
My friend has the 665 (but the CODA model) and has had a few minor problems with it. All would be pretty easy to fix.. her super loose headjoint (to the point it moves while shes playing it), sticky keys.. noisy thumb key (my Dolce did that too but was fixed as it just needed oiling) , screw coming partially out sometimes.
Her most recent problem is the little metal piece that makes the trill keys work popped out during a concert and she couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I looked super fast at it inbetween songs and fixed it (another friends flute breaks constantly.. and i always fix it lol)
She also has A LOT of tuning issues, but I'm pretty sure that is her, not the flute (aside from the headjoint moving)
But really she doesn't have any major problems with it.. she does take it in once a year I think.
I have a Pearl Dolce CODA and have had NO problems aside from a few sticky keys once in a while and the thumb key.. it was perfectly playable and sounded fine, it was just annoying.
Overall I think Pearls have great flutes, but if you can spend a little extra money for a Dolce model it will be well worth it as the quality really is quite a bit better overall as they are partially handmade. The sound will also be significantly better with the handcut Forza headjoint compared to the stock headjoint on the 665.
But either way I think Pearl makes pretty good flutes
Her most recent problem is the little metal piece that makes the trill keys work popped out during a concert and she couldn't figure out why it wasn't working. I looked super fast at it inbetween songs and fixed it (another friends flute breaks constantly.. and i always fix it lol)
She also has A LOT of tuning issues, but I'm pretty sure that is her, not the flute (aside from the headjoint moving)
But really she doesn't have any major problems with it.. she does take it in once a year I think.
I have a Pearl Dolce CODA and have had NO problems aside from a few sticky keys once in a while and the thumb key.. it was perfectly playable and sounded fine, it was just annoying.
Overall I think Pearls have great flutes, but if you can spend a little extra money for a Dolce model it will be well worth it as the quality really is quite a bit better overall as they are partially handmade. The sound will also be significantly better with the handcut Forza headjoint compared to the stock headjoint on the 665.
But either way I think Pearl makes pretty good flutes
PS the 40th Anniversary models are great deals now, as Pearl is selling all the stock they have left. They come with the CODA package, and the custom "Forza" head for almost no difference in price compaired to the standard models. Their 40th was actually in 2008....so there are some great deals to be had on the remaining models. I ordered one of 5 that Pearl had left at the distributor in Nashville, so they are going quickly.
- MissyHPhoenix
- Posts: 368
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Hammond, LA, USA
Im still learning the quirks of the headjoint, but I love it! I got a fantastic deal on it, so that makes it even better. The scale is wonderful, keys feel tight and precise, and the projection combined with a great full low register makes it perfect for me! Im very happy with it.
www.cantabileflutequartet.com www.defproject.org
- MissyHPhoenix
- Posts: 368
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Hammond, LA, USA
- MissyHPhoenix
- Posts: 368
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Hammond, LA, USA
az1983 -- I'm testing the Pearl 765 Coda right now, and I'm right there with you on the headjoint. I like it, but boy is it making me work for it! The only thing I don't like about this model is that it didn't come with the split E, which I have discovered is vital in order for me to get out a decent high E. I'll be getting an Elegante 795 Coda in a few weeks, with all of the bells & whistles, and I'll let you know how that one goes. It has the same Forza headjoint.
Missy
Why Be Normal????
Why Be Normal????
Glad to hear you all are lovin' your Pearls! If you ever need info, just give a holler.
We've been working on lots of new stuff, some is out, some is still in experimentation. If you want to know what we are working on, I'd be happy to post some of the new things to come..
BTW,The Elegante coda is one of our best selling models!
Joe B
Pearl Flutes
We've been working on lots of new stuff, some is out, some is still in experimentation. If you want to know what we are working on, I'd be happy to post some of the new things to come..
BTW,The Elegante coda is one of our best selling models!
Joe B
Pearl Flutes
Headjoint question
Hi all! I am brand new to this forum, but not new to the flute by any means. I have been reading through the different threads here during the past few weeks, and have seen some very helpful insight and input, so I thought I'd pose a question and see if anyone cares to offer an opinion. I have an Emerson 88B (sterling silver tube, handcut embouchure) which I love, and while there is nothing *wrong* with the flute, I am curious to know what different types of sounds I could get from different headjoints from other makers. I have always owned Emersons, so they are all that I know. To begin, could headjoints from Pearl, Jack Moore, etc., be fitted to my Emerson? I am looking for something that would further open up the low register, but not for something that would break the bank in doing so. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I should perhaps begin looking? Like I mentioned, my only experience with flutes during my ~15 years as a flutist have been with Emersons, so I am not sure what would be a good match. I certainly do appreciate any help you'd be willing to offer!
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- Posts: 2311
- Joined: Sun Jul 16, 2006 3:11 pm
You can get almost any headjoint with a standard bore fitted to almost any flute body with a standard bore.
Most flute companies sell their headjoints separately. There are also Lafin, Sheridan, Arista, and a few other headjoint exclusive companies out there.
I suggest that you just start trying them. But before you do so, make sure your flute is in top shape by taking it for maintenance. A leaky flute is a leaky flute, and no headjoint can fix that. So that could be one of the problems you might be having with your low register. And just because you can't see leaks doesn't mean that they aren't there...
Most flute companies sell their headjoints separately. There are also Lafin, Sheridan, Arista, and a few other headjoint exclusive companies out there.
I suggest that you just start trying them. But before you do so, make sure your flute is in top shape by taking it for maintenance. A leaky flute is a leaky flute, and no headjoint can fix that. So that could be one of the problems you might be having with your low register. And just because you can't see leaks doesn't mean that they aren't there...
The Bore on the flute is pretty standard. Fit is determined pretty much by Tubing thickness. Thin walled flutes have less available options since a standard wall headjoint won't fit in them. You can re-size within reason without worrying about ruining a headjoint. Trying a headjoint that is too loose is easy as you can temporarily put tape on the tenon to try it out. If it is too big, you won't be able to try it.fluteguy18 wrote:You can get almost any headjoint with a standard bore fitted to almost any flute body with a standard bore.
On sizing, Since the bore is standard, barrels are made to accommodate tubing thickness. A thicker tube has the same bore size but is larger in its diameter. This is why various headjoints will fit to a degree. It is dependent on the tubing thickness.
Old thin wall haynes flutes often have upgrades to gold heads. Most Gold heads are in that .011-.012" thickness which matches many of the Old Haynes body tube thickness. Most silver flutes are in the .014"-.016" range while heavy wall pro can be between .017-.018". Most student and some intermediate flutes lean to the higher side of thickness so an ample # of headjoints can be tried on them easily.
Yes, Have your flute checked for leaks before trying headjoints. Flutes with a higher riser will favor the lower register more but can be more resistant as you go into the 3rd register. Certain types of cuts can alleviate that somewhat.
Low risers are in the .190" range, high risers get into just over .210" range. For all around playing somewhere in the middle is good for most people. Really strong players can handle a riser slightly over .210" I would try and settle with something between the .200" and .210" range.
Unless you have the tools to measure, it is neither likely nor probable that a maker will tell you or allow you to measure their riser spec. The best way is still to play a bunch and ask for something that will help your low end or ask for a pretty good riser height. Most of the makers will help guide you to make a determination since they know what's in their headjoints.
Joe B