Please consider the ergonomics of playing a Boehm system flute held in front of you and pointing downward. If you have the flute in your picture, try fingering notes of a scale in that vertical position.
The development of an embouchure won't happen overnight. Even if you do get a sound from a flute, it takes a lot of focused practice over months to be able to reliably create desirable tones, not just occassional practice or a bi-annual college try. I had to get some people to show me how to do it in person to even begin to get a sound, then I struggled for weeks and months with some jade flutes (creating some very high pitched sounds) before moving on to a low D, PVC flute.
The silver, Boehm system flute is very elegant, but the wood or cane flute has a much longer history. I know you can get a simple system (open finger hole) flute that provides for both fipple and embouchure hole head joints, but it isn't silver.
I know you can get a low whistle that will be about the same size as a Boehm system flute and more flute-like in its tone very inexpensively at Amazon, complete with fipple. I have one, and I think it has a nice tone. It hardly requires a breath to play the base register. They make metal ones as well, as your other picture seems to illustrate.
I know there is a device called a "cheater" that was once made as part of some flutes. I have one, made in Maryland, that I purchased at auction. It is very old. The metal chute, or cheater, is welded to the side of the flute just below the embouchure hole. It is a very nice substitute for a tin whistle, that I regard as superior to a whistle, because I have yet to encounter the "clogged fipple" problems I've had due to moisture with whistles, yet it solves the same problem in terms of eliminating the embouchure issue.
It seems that you could make a "cheater" if you so wished. You would simply have to get a square of wood, cut it to a suitable rectangle to be thick enough to permit you to drill a couple of holes in it that would force air over the embouchure hole like a couple of parallel straws. You could get a couple of pieces of wire (clotheshanger if you want to be crude and cheap), and cut it to permit you to use a pair of pliers (and some very durable leather gloves) to first shape the wire to clip on around the flute body and lip plate. Start with a "U" in the wire with the gap big enough to go around the lip plate, then bend the legs of the U into "L" shapes back toward the center, the another 90 degree bend to bring them up on either side of the piece of wood comprising the chute you have made. You'll have to bend the base of the U so that it can be clipped under the lip plate (at the risk of scratching the flute if you leave the wire bare and do not tape it carefully).
With that done, get some glue and some tape and glue the wire legs onto either side of the chute. Be careful to put little bends in the ends, so it doesn't come loose and poke you in the lip, face, or eye on either side. Glue the wire into place. Wrap a piece of tape around it, and when it is thoroughly dry, clip it into place so the chute directs air from your lips over the embouchure hole at the proper angle.
I've never used this design, and anyone who does and finds it inadequate or who is injured while making or using it must assume responsibility for their own actions, including any damage to the flute. I do not offer this as a refined solution, but a possibility. If you use toxic glue, the fumes, even when the glue is dry, can have a very nasty effect.
You can tell if the idea will work without much trouble by using a straw from McDonald's. Cut an inch or so off one end, then do it again to produce two, identical, short pieces, tape the two straw pieces together but don't collapse them, and blow through them at an angle to the embouchure hole. It's the same concept as a cheater chute and might be a little safer than making one from wood and wire. You could probably find a way to tape it to the side of the lip plate, although you might have to tape it to a small rectangle of something flexible, like cardboard, on the bottom of the straw pieces, then tape the other end of the flexible base to the lip plate.)
All that said, you could probably get a quote for a PVC headjoint with a whistle fipple glued on the end and the far end lathed to serve as a PVC headjoint for your existing flute if you contact Doug Tipple and tell him that you would send him your existing flute's headjoint to let him measure it, if you decide to do it. Ask him how much to connect a good quality tin whistle fipple to the end of a piece of PVC pipe with the fipple's sound hole at the same place as the embouchure hole of your flute. It might cost less than thousands, but it wouldn't be silver. (He might even be able to make a fipple to fit the bore of the flute from the PVC he'd use to make the headjoint. He might give you a price if you send him a picture of your headjoint, and ask how much to execute the flute fipple in PVC. You can reach him at "
dougsflutes@gmail.com".
Good luck. (I'd suggest more consistent practice preceded by a few lessons before I'd give up on the standard configuration. A low whistle really is the logical alternative. Barring that, perhaps a clarinet?)
