Adding a split E?
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Adding a split E?
Is it possible to add a splite E to a a flute that doesn't have one?
- pied_piper
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Don't remember from 1998, but current pricing from the http://www.wmshaynes.com website says its now $650 for a Split E and $650 for C# trill on silver instruments, and $1200 each on gold.
- pied_piper
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- Location: Virginia
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A donut inserted in the lower G hole (making that tone hole smaller) will give you a similar benefit as the split E key without any of the disadvantages of the extra mechanism. Many repairmen are experienced in doing this procedure. I had it done on an Altus and really liked the result.
Best, Ann
Best, Ann
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"Music belongs to everyone." ~ Zoltán Kodály
"Music belongs to everyone." ~ Zoltán Kodály
I am thinking very seriously about doing that. It's only around $80 were I live and cheaper than buying a new flute with a split E.kodalyflutist wrote:A donut inserted in the lower G hole (making that tone hole smaller) will give you a similar benefit as the split E key without any of the disadvantages of the extra mechanism. Many repairmen are experienced in doing this procedure. I had it done on an Altus and really liked the result.
Best, Ann
I know this is an old post, but I was just discussing this with Brannen the other day. Haynes did swap out 5 of the keys (the E, F, F#, lower G, upper G) to do this. They also did it in such a way that the bar is below the mechanism and not the "wraparound" key that one normally sees around the lower G key.pied_piper wrote:I was just curious, but I'd think that it is more expensive to retrofit the keys to an existing flute than to get them when a flute is originally manufactured.
Brannen does offer a "clutch style" Split-E with their inline-Gs, but not when a C# Trill is also ordered. So I'm going to end up with the "wrapaound" key which I think is not as attractive.
Here are pictures of how Haynes did/does their Split-E for Inline-G flutes:
Notice the 3 inch long bar from the back that is not visable from the top

Notice the clean look from the top - but also notice that the 1998 G-key does not extactly match the 1972 A-key next to it


- pied_piper
- Posts: 1962
- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 1:31 pm
- Location: Virginia
PP:
I can tell you that I did have a binding problem once after Haynes did a complete overhaul several years later. The high F to F# trill wouldn't work. Carolyn Nussbaum has been servicing this flute since 2006 (after I bought my 14K Williams headjoint from her) and I haven't had any binding problems with it anymore.
From what I've read Haynes no longer offers a Split-E with an inline-G, probably because they have had so many binding problems.
I know some manufacturers will offer a Split-E with an inline-G only for their pinless mechanisms (I think Powell does this). Off course Brannen's Brögger Mekanik™ is pinless which is why they do offer it.
One of the reasons I went with Brannen instead of Williams, is because Mr. Williams would not put a Split-E with an Inline-G. I've played Inline-Gs since 1972 and didn't want to switch to an Offset-G because two of my other flutes have an Inline-G and I didn't want my fingers to get confused.
I can tell you that I did have a binding problem once after Haynes did a complete overhaul several years later. The high F to F# trill wouldn't work. Carolyn Nussbaum has been servicing this flute since 2006 (after I bought my 14K Williams headjoint from her) and I haven't had any binding problems with it anymore.
From what I've read Haynes no longer offers a Split-E with an inline-G, probably because they have had so many binding problems.
I know some manufacturers will offer a Split-E with an inline-G only for their pinless mechanisms (I think Powell does this). Off course Brannen's Brögger Mekanik™ is pinless which is why they do offer it.
One of the reasons I went with Brannen instead of Williams, is because Mr. Williams would not put a Split-E with an Inline-G. I've played Inline-Gs since 1972 and didn't want to switch to an Offset-G because two of my other flutes have an Inline-G and I didn't want my fingers to get confused.
- pied_piper
- Posts: 1962
- Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 1:31 pm
- Location: Virginia
Yes, I'm aware that an inline split E can have a tendency to bind one or more keys. I've had to work on a few with that issue. The root of that problem tends to be the distance between the posts allows the steel and keys to flex and bind. That could be solved if the manufacturers simply installed an additional post to reduce the flexing.
I'm like you though. I've played inline flutes since the early 70s. Nowadays, many people say that the offset G is more ergonomic, but I'm 6'1", have long fingers and an offset G key is not comfortable to me. At this point, I don't want to switch either.
I'm like you though. I've played inline flutes since the early 70s. Nowadays, many people say that the offset G is more ergonomic, but I'm 6'1", have long fingers and an offset G key is not comfortable to me. At this point, I don't want to switch either.
"Never give a flute player a screwdriver."
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