Hello,
Just received two wooden headjoints on trial and absolutely love both! After playing them for a couple days, switching them out, to see which one I like better, I thought it a good idea to see what the maintenance procedure is like when owning a wooden headjoint. So I went on the internet to see what is involved.
I was shocked to read that you should break-in a wooden headjoint, playing them 10 - 20 minutes every day for two weeks, etc.... I'm upset that I was not told about a break-in period for wooden headjoints from the store that set up the trial. One headjoint is used and hopefully has already been broken in, purchased in 1990. The other one is brand new (but could have been out on trial before me.)
I played them both for up to an hour for two consecutive days, switching them out, to see which one I like better. I of course did swab them before putting them away.
Is this okay? Will they be alright? Does anyone else have a wooden headjoint that they did not break-in?
Thanks for any info or advice.
Wooden Headjoints
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- MissyHPhoenix
- Posts: 368
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Hammond, LA, USA
Re: Wooden Headjoints
I had a wooden headjoint and, like you, was not told anything about a break-in period. When I read about it, I contacted the manufacturing company directly, and they told me that I had nothing to worry about. Thankfully, never had a moment's trouble with it. I wonder if the break-in period is mainly for a completely wooden instrument, not just a headjoint..... ?
Missy
Why Be Normal????
Why Be Normal????
Re: Wooden Headjoints
What are the brands (and makes) of these wood headjoints?
I know about wooden instruments that need breaking in. This is a very serious process that may lead the instrument to a crack or to a long life without any problems, depending on how serious the process is taken.
Now about headjoint break-in, I've never heard, though I have none (yet...).
I have a colleague who owns a wooden headjoint (argentinian, made by Julio Hernandez), which she loves btw, and I can ask her about this.
Meanwhile you may find some info about it here http://www.hernandezflute.com/
I know about wooden instruments that need breaking in. This is a very serious process that may lead the instrument to a crack or to a long life without any problems, depending on how serious the process is taken.
Now about headjoint break-in, I've never heard, though I have none (yet...).
I have a colleague who owns a wooden headjoint (argentinian, made by Julio Hernandez), which she loves btw, and I can ask her about this.
Meanwhile you may find some info about it here http://www.hernandezflute.com/
Re: Wooden Headjoints
I'm new on this forum, and mostly lurk... I've mainly played wooden flutes, so I thought I'd chime in on this one.
It is most commonly the headjoint that splits, so this would be true with a wooden headjoint, regardless of the material of the flute's body. Splitting is usually caused by moisture (as opposed to a hard knock, or imperfection in the wood, for example), either entering the wood too rapidly, or from shrinking (not being played regulary and drying out, particularly if there is a metal tube or slide inside the head). Breaking in a wooden flute, or headjoint, is to provide or introduce a slow, gradual humidity content to the wood, rather than adding it quickly or unevenly. Rapid, uneven moisture content can cause a headjoint to split, and this is why most makers are particular about the break-in period.
A couple of things: Broken-in, as a status, is only good if the flute/flute head is played regularly, whether it's a new flute or an old one. In other words, an old "broken-in" wooden headjoint needs to be slowly broken in again, since its lost moisture if the head wasn't being played for a long time. Oil is often used to slow these moisture input/output amounts down, and the maker of the headjoint should give you their opinions about this; follow their advice, and you'll be fine. Oiling a flute is a much-debated topic, but most new wooden flutes are impregnated with oil pretty thoroughly before they're sent. Secondly, the kind of wood is important; African blackwood is a fairly dense, oily wood to begin with (used for flutes and clarinets), and will shrink or expand less from moisture changes than, say, boxwood.
On the plus side to all this, if your headjoints didn't crack from your hour-long session(s), or shortly thereafter, no harm seems to have been done. Keep playing the headjoints, for shorter periods than your hour, and don't worry too much. Wood is less fragile than most people think - it's drastic changes that usually cause a split to occur - way too dry, too moist too soon, extreme and sudden temp changes, etc. - and most care is a matter of common sense.
It is most commonly the headjoint that splits, so this would be true with a wooden headjoint, regardless of the material of the flute's body. Splitting is usually caused by moisture (as opposed to a hard knock, or imperfection in the wood, for example), either entering the wood too rapidly, or from shrinking (not being played regulary and drying out, particularly if there is a metal tube or slide inside the head). Breaking in a wooden flute, or headjoint, is to provide or introduce a slow, gradual humidity content to the wood, rather than adding it quickly or unevenly. Rapid, uneven moisture content can cause a headjoint to split, and this is why most makers are particular about the break-in period.
A couple of things: Broken-in, as a status, is only good if the flute/flute head is played regularly, whether it's a new flute or an old one. In other words, an old "broken-in" wooden headjoint needs to be slowly broken in again, since its lost moisture if the head wasn't being played for a long time. Oil is often used to slow these moisture input/output amounts down, and the maker of the headjoint should give you their opinions about this; follow their advice, and you'll be fine. Oiling a flute is a much-debated topic, but most new wooden flutes are impregnated with oil pretty thoroughly before they're sent. Secondly, the kind of wood is important; African blackwood is a fairly dense, oily wood to begin with (used for flutes and clarinets), and will shrink or expand less from moisture changes than, say, boxwood.
On the plus side to all this, if your headjoints didn't crack from your hour-long session(s), or shortly thereafter, no harm seems to have been done. Keep playing the headjoints, for shorter periods than your hour, and don't worry too much. Wood is less fragile than most people think - it's drastic changes that usually cause a split to occur - way too dry, too moist too soon, extreme and sudden temp changes, etc. - and most care is a matter of common sense.
Re: Wooden Headjoints
Thanks for all of your comments/info!
The new headjoint is a Powell. The used headjoint is a Full Circle Lot cut.
I'm keeping the Full Circle and have sent the Powell back.
Missyphoenix... from reading your other posts, you also own a Full Circle, correct? Beautiful headjoint. Do you have the Lot cut?
I'm using the headjoint on my Yamaha 674 when performing baroque music. I have a Pearl Maesta that I play most often.
You may remember me with the "two flute post" a little over a year ago? FYI, this is where I'm at now and happy!
Although it is used, I'm breaking the Full Circle in slowly now. Would a humidifier (the cigar type box) be a good idea for the storage of wooden headjoints? Just a thought.
The new headjoint is a Powell. The used headjoint is a Full Circle Lot cut.
I'm keeping the Full Circle and have sent the Powell back.
Missyphoenix... from reading your other posts, you also own a Full Circle, correct? Beautiful headjoint. Do you have the Lot cut?
I'm using the headjoint on my Yamaha 674 when performing baroque music. I have a Pearl Maesta that I play most often.
You may remember me with the "two flute post" a little over a year ago? FYI, this is where I'm at now and happy!
Although it is used, I'm breaking the Full Circle in slowly now. Would a humidifier (the cigar type box) be a good idea for the storage of wooden headjoints? Just a thought.
- MissyHPhoenix
- Posts: 368
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 5:19 pm
- Location: Hammond, LA, USA
Re: Wooden Headjoints
Bee, yes, I did have the Full Circle Louis Lot headjoint. Unfortunately, I needed money earlier this year and had to sell it.
I loved it a lot, and will definitely get another one in the future when I can afford it. I know you will enjoy yours! It is perfect for baroque.
What did you think of the Powell headjoint? I did not have a chance to try out one, but wanted to.

What did you think of the Powell headjoint? I did not have a chance to try out one, but wanted to.
Missy
Why Be Normal????
Why Be Normal????
Re: Wooden Headjoints
Hi Missy
I loved the Powell wooden headjoint. It was very responsive and had a focused tone that definately projected. It was a Philharmonic cut (not sure if Powell uses other cuts on their wooden headjoints).
A few reasons I decided to send it back and keep the Full Circle is:
The Full Circle, although it is not as responsive as the Powell, yields more of a broader tonal spectrum and sounds and feels more wooden (baroque) to me. When I play the Full Circle I feel I'm playing a Baroque flute.
The Powell, although being made out of wood, was more similar to a metal headjoint. So I wanted something different.
Also... the cost. The Full Circle was 300.00 less than the Powell.
Thirdly, I can always buy a Powell headjoint since they are currently making them. I would first though want to try out some others as well, such a Eppler headjoints.
PS. Welcome Gordon and thanks so much for your post and great info on wooden heajoints!
I loved the Powell wooden headjoint. It was very responsive and had a focused tone that definately projected. It was a Philharmonic cut (not sure if Powell uses other cuts on their wooden headjoints).
A few reasons I decided to send it back and keep the Full Circle is:
The Full Circle, although it is not as responsive as the Powell, yields more of a broader tonal spectrum and sounds and feels more wooden (baroque) to me. When I play the Full Circle I feel I'm playing a Baroque flute.
The Powell, although being made out of wood, was more similar to a metal headjoint. So I wanted something different.
Also... the cost. The Full Circle was 300.00 less than the Powell.
Thirdly, I can always buy a Powell headjoint since they are currently making them. I would first though want to try out some others as well, such a Eppler headjoints.
PS. Welcome Gordon and thanks so much for your post and great info on wooden heajoints!