Ok, I know this is going to make me look like an idiot...

Mango · Post by **Mango** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 3:42 pm

But I need some help with the cleaning thing

I just got a cleaning rod, and is it OK to just put an old sock on it, like some of the flutes in Band do and I've been doing with a borrowed cleaning rod, or should I get a cloth? If a cloth, what kind and do I need to get it at a music store?

What's the little line for at the tip of the cleaning rod for?

And why is the one end flat with a slot in it?

Is there any certain "technique" that works best for cleaning a flute?

Thanks

Caroline_Fluter · Post by **Caroline_Fluter** » Wed Jun 22, 2005 6:21 pm

(1) Socks won't absorb spit as well as actual cleaning rags will.

(2) socks are usually not made the right way and there is a risk of getting it caught on the inside of your flute (this has happened to me before... once I got my cleaning rag caught on the inside of my piccolo and it was hell trying to get it out)

(3) The slot works like this: pretend the cleaning rag is a piece of thread and the rod is the needle... make sense? It just helps it stay on and if you have a ton of spit in your flute it's easier to twist around and stuff to get it all out.

(4) The line on the end of the rod is for this: if you take your headjoint and stick the end of the cleaning rod into it, you should be able to see the line just about exactly in the middle of the embochure hole. If it's not very well lined up, the cork on the end of your flute isn't the way it's supposed to be, but if you're a beginning flute player then don't worry about it because the cork is for a subtle changes in the tone of advanced players.

(5) if you don't want to go buy a spit rag, get a very old and VERY THIN t-shirt and cut about one square foot of fabric from the back.... that's what i use on the flute i have for marching band.

hope this helps!

------caroline

Mango · Post by **Mango** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 7:28 am

thanks!!

Playing 4Him · Post by **Playing 4Him** » Mon Aug 08, 2005 6:20 pm

Cotton (or silk) handkerchiefs are good.

Claiken · Post by **Claiken** » Tue Aug 09, 2005 11:56 pm

4) The line on the end of the rod is for this: if you take your headjoint and stick the end of the cleaning rod into it, you should be able to see the line just about exactly in the middle of the embochure hole. If it's not very well lined up, the cork on the end of your flute isn't the way it's supposed to be, but if you're a beginning flute player then don't worry about it because the cork is for a subtle changes in the tone of advanced players.

thats SO interesting, i never knew that, let alone thought of that!!!! i thought it was purely decorative. what kinds of changes does it make? like is it the same as moving your mouthpiece in or out a little???

so, is it bad that the flute i used in high school the cork came right out of it? easily?

MeLizzard · Post by **MeLizzard** » Wed Aug 10, 2005 6:29 pm

Yes

--this means the cork has atrophied, and air is leaking out!!!!!!!!!!!!

Claiken · Post by **Claiken** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 12:24 am

no wonder i could barely get a sound out before!! that was back in the day, in grade 9. but i remember thats how i cleaned it, took the top off & put the cleaning rod right through. lol

ninjaaron · Post by **ninjaaron** » Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:55 am

Claiken wrote:
4) The line on the end of the rod is for this: if you take your headjoint and stick the end of the cleaning rod into it, you should be able to see the line just about exactly in the middle of the embochure hole. If it's not very well lined up, the cork on the end of your flute isn't the way it's supposed to be, but if you're a beginning flute player then don't worry about it because the cork is for a subtle changes in the tone of advanced players.
thats SO interesting, i never knew that, let alone thought of that!!!! i thought it was purely decorative. what kinds of changes does it make?

I don't really have a boehm flute, but I build Irish flutes, and I can tell you all aobut quark distances. The "idea" quark distance (from the hole) is like 7D/6 where D is the diamater of the bore (18mm on a boehm, I believe. 3/4" on most of the flutes I build). Moving the quark farther away will increase the resonance in the lower registers, and make the tuning slightly flater. Moving it up with give more power to the higher registers, and make it sharper. On the Irish flute it is important to strike a good balance in intonation because the second octave is naturally more flat than the first, especially given the thicker wall materials usually used in the construction of tradtional style flutes. The problem is especially apparent with smaller holes.

This can be compensated in several ways. A conical bore flute suffers much less from intonation problems, however, on tradtion flutes with a cylindarial bore, such as those made from bamboo or PVC (a material of increasing popularity for the constrution of traditional flutes, it actually sounds nice), it can be helped a bit by undercutting the holes towards the emboucher. Another thing that helps, which only PVC flute maker is doing at this point that I know of (and no bamboo makers. It's not me, by the way), is inserting a wedge into the bore, against the quark. This is an idea borrowed from the construction of your classicla flutes. Thanks.

Anyway, I went way off on a tangent. The quark placement affects the strenght of the various registers, and adjusts the tuning slightly. there is your answer

FltnPicc_David · Post by **FltnPicc_David** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 11:21 am

I clean the flute everyday because of the tough conditions it goes through in Marching Band. I first dry out the bore with a cotton cloth on my cleaning rod and clean thoroughly and then I place the Pad-Saver into the body joint bore. Once in a while when dirt, dust and etc. get trapped between your keys and mechanism rods I use a cleaning brush to remove it. ALL THIS IS FROM MY FLUTE CARE KIT. I got it from my local music supplies store. I also have a silver polish sheet that I dunno how but the fibers attract the "invisible" dirts and unsanitary craps that get on your keys and metal, etc. I just gently rub it on and off comes some strange gray and black residue. Keep your flute in tip-top condition. You might want to oil the keys once in a while and take it to a repair pro for a yearly checkup. I heard that cork grease eats at the tenons (parts where the flutes are joined) and that you should wipe the tenons clean after every play time.

Band_Geek · Post by **Band_Geek** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 11:49 am

Does anybody know how to clean the pads under the keys? The pads on my piccolo were yellow but now they are a very, very pale yellow. Almost gray-ish.

FltnPicc_David · Post by **FltnPicc_David** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 12:20 pm

Eew. I hear that powders dont work so I take a non-abrasive sheet of paper and place it under the pad and PRESS THE KEY ONTO IT GENTLY. Then slowly pull the paper out. Gemeinhardt says you can use small amounts of rubbing alcohol to clean pads and they say it's safe but I havent tried yet. DONT USE WATER. It will swell you pads and the pads will fall out.

BiGSCARYMONSTER · Post by **BiGSCARYMONSTER** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 2:47 pm

I've been using a piece of an old cotton shirt that I cut up and it works fine....just put it through the hole and push it through. On the top part you can twist it around and stuff a few times but you shouldn't do that on the other parts cause you can mess it up .

makeajoyfulnoise · Post by **makeajoyfulnoise** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 5:17 am

I have found that zig zag cigarette papers work well for cleaning the pads. If you buy 1 small pack they fit into your flute case very easily and you will always have them handy. What you do is pinch one between the key and the key hole and pull it out. I do agree that rubbing alchahol will work to clean it if just paper alone does not work but make sure that it is just rubbing alchahol and nothing else (like face cleaner). Put one small drop on the cigarette paper and pinch it between the key and hole and pull it out.

Jamie_Babie · Post by **Jamie_Babie** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:53 am

My footjoint can be really stiff sometimes and i'm worried about bending the keys. What can i do. It said not to use cork grease.

I heard that cork grease eats at the tenons

My teacher said to wipe the joints with a piece of plain paper, is this right?

fluttiegurl · Post by **fluttiegurl** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:57 am

Cleaning the tenon with a soft cloth every time you play helps. I prefer cloth over paper. One of my flutes had an exceptionally tight footjoint. I took it in for maintenance, and the tech told me he could loosen it some without making it too loose (which is an entirely different problem to deal with). It works fine now.

I was also told that for a quick fix, you can use graphite (pencil lead). I tried this on my alto, and it worked. Just be sure to rub it off with a soft cloth. I am not sure if this will cause any harm in the long run, I had the also cleaned and adjusted not long after that.

Cork grease can also cause a gummy substance to build up on the metal. It is designed to be used on cork, which absorbes the grease, unlike metal. It is also very hard to remove after long term use. Usually, regular cleaning that will help.

I have noticed that many of the cheap Chinese flutes come with a little container of cork grease. Hmm . . . .