Difficult notes
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Difficult notes
What are some of the more difficult notes? Not necessarily the fingering but producing a good tone. I have already found that Bb1 is difficult. However, B1 comes out nice and clear?
- flutepicc06
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- Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 11:34 pm
Generally notes involving shorter lengths of tube are the ones that are more difficult to get a good tone on, but also easier to color. One note in particular that is usually quite troublesome is C#, but others might be B, Bb, A, etc. It varies from flute to flute too, so there's really no saying what the difficult tones might be with your particular set up. Tone will also rely heavily on the cut of the embouchure and how well the pads are sealing. Some embouchure holes are more directed to producing the lower register, some the higher pitches, and some are balanced pretty well between the various octaves.
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Absolutely. Also, quite a few people have trouble with E3. Refraining from cracking that note, and playing chromatically around that note. Often times, the problem is solved by a High E facilitator [donut or crescent] or the Split E Mechanism. But, with multiple adjustments, it can be played quite easily without any of those.
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I seem to have trouble also with the notes starting out clean and loud but after a few minute of playing start getting airy and weak. If I rest a while the notes come back. Is my emboucher getting tired or is moisture collecting in the flute?flutepicc06 wrote:Generally notes involving shorter lengths of tube are the ones that are more difficult to get a good tone on, but also easier to color. One note in particular that is usually quite troublesome is C#, but others might be B, Bb, A, etc. It varies from flute to flute too, so there's really no saying what the difficult tones might be with your particular set up. Tone will also rely heavily on the cut of the embouchure and how well the pads are sealing. Some embouchure holes are more directed to producing the lower register, some the higher pitches, and some are balanced pretty well between the various octaves.
Yup, you're right. I just tried C#2 and it's a little tricky. Oh well just have to keep at it and hopefully things will improve.remnantpark wrote:To me, C#2, ARRG... It's hard to make a nice tone for me.
I also say C3 for me. I don't know why it's hard for me, I can go above it or lower but never the C...E3 and F#3 too...
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Well, in my opinion, it is hard to tell without really seeing you play. If it's moisture in the flute, I don't remember the sound getting "airy" but they do get "weak". I'm not much of an expert but that happened to me a couple of times and then it goes away.I seem to have trouble also with the notes starting out clean and loud but after a few minute of playing start getting airy and weak. If I rest a while the notes come back. Is my emboucher getting tired or is moisture collecting in the flute?
I heard that you can put down your right second and third finger to make it sound a little better. My teacher told me to blow "warm air" into it, and it does work.Yup, you're right. I just tried C#2 and it's a little tricky. Oh well just have to keep at it and hopefully things will improve.
- flutepicc06
- Posts: 1353
- Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 11:34 pm
Chances are that it's not a problem with moisture in the flute. Condensation is quite normal, but it doesn't usually affect how the flute plays. If your embouchure hole has a burr in it or something where the moisture could collect, that may have an impact (and the burr itself would like have an impact even if the moisture didn't collect there). It takes a good bit of work build up your endurance for any great length of time. The muscles that form your embouchure likely are still strengthening, so it's not at all unusual that you would experience something like this. However, it could also be an issue with the flute (if your playing was affecting how the pads or headjoint cork sealed, you might begin to notice some thinness as your play session progressed). How you're using your embouchure could also have an impact, as excess tension involved in the embouchure can lead to tiring more quickly, and losing tone quality. Keep working and you should notice that it all becomes easier as you go along the flute road.sinebar wrote:I seem to have trouble also with the notes starting out clean and loud but after a few minute of playing start getting airy and weak. If I rest a while the notes come back. Is my emboucher getting tired or is moisture collecting in the flute?flutepicc06 wrote:Generally notes involving shorter lengths of tube are the ones that are more difficult to get a good tone on, but also easier to color. One note in particular that is usually quite troublesome is C#, but others might be B, Bb, A, etc. It varies from flute to flute too, so there's really no saying what the difficult tones might be with your particular set up. Tone will also rely heavily on the cut of the embouchure and how well the pads are sealing. Some embouchure holes are more directed to producing the lower register, some the higher pitches, and some are balanced pretty well between the various octaves.
update
I guess I should update this thread since I found the problem with my Bb1. It turns out that A# key was out of adjustment. There was a gap and the A# didn't close all the way. I fixed it temporarilly by adding tape between the Left first finger and A# clutch. I don't know the correct name for this little clutch on the side of the flute. BTW this is a new Yamaha YFL-381 form WWBW. I guess it wasn't set up too good when it left the factory. This flute was assembled in the USA. At one time this would have been a plus but now I'm not sure.
- flutepicc06
- Posts: 1353
- Joined: Mon May 29, 2006 11:34 pm
Very few flutes, even from major makers, come fully set up when they're fresh out of the box. Some dealers will set them up prior to sale, but others will leave it to the buyer. It's not an unusual state of things, unfortunately, and this particular problem is one reason why I stopped buying from WWBW. Really the only exceptions are with one-off special order or fully handmade instruments meant for one particular player. A technician can set things right very easily by either setting the adjustment screws or placing a very precisely fit piece of cork or paper onto the clutch (I don't know the specs of your flute off the top of my head). Place of origin is no guarantee on the quality of an instrument, unfortunately, though America is better than some places it could come from.
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can someone just look at this fingering chart 4 me?x
Although I'd had 'lessons' my old flute tutor never took me into the third octave, even though I must have been proficient at one point, because I got a distinction at Grade 5 flute, but now i'm trying to do all these 'high notes', they just sound full of air and awful.
I could be wrong, but I think I may have bought a crappy flute. In all fairness, it was dirt cheap, and it does the job to practice on till I get something better.
So that's it. I find all the notes hard.
http://www.wfg.woodwind.org/flute/fl_bas_3.html
I printed that out for my music folder.
Does anyone know if it's OK?
I think it's probably just practice. I am going to get my flute properly serviced in England when I come home, and if it's beyond help, I'll buy a new one either this year, or next year.
x
I could be wrong, but I think I may have bought a crappy flute. In all fairness, it was dirt cheap, and it does the job to practice on till I get something better.
So that's it. I find all the notes hard.
http://www.wfg.woodwind.org/flute/fl_bas_3.html
I printed that out for my music folder.
Does anyone know if it's OK?
I think it's probably just practice. I am going to get my flute properly serviced in England when I come home, and if it's beyond help, I'll buy a new one either this year, or next year.
x