I can't even get down to D1.
I can get E1 fairly reliably, and I can maintain a tone when I get down to E-flat. But soon as I release the right pinky to get to D, I lose the tone.
Does the blowing change at all when you get down to D? Or should I be able to smoothly change from E to D to C1 simply by changing my right hand fingering?
Difficulty with playing C1
Moderators: Classitar, pied_piper, Phineas
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LaDanseuse
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Sun May 22, 2005 7:20 pm
fhayashi, I don't know how long you have been playing. If you are a beginner, then be patient with the low octave. It's hard and will come with time. Right now focus on getting a steady, SLOW air stream across the flute with a relaxed, oval shaped embouchure. Keep blowing until you get a sound, then practice sustaining it.
If you've been playing for a while now, or that you've been trying to get a sound without success for a while, then consult your teacher if you have one. He or she may be able to find either a fault with you or with the flute. Most likely it should be with the flute.
Good luck!
If you've been playing for a while now, or that you've been trying to get a sound without success for a while, then consult your teacher if you have one. He or she may be able to find either a fault with you or with the flute. Most likely it should be with the flute.
Good luck!
C1 issues, buying off Ebay
First things first. Generally speaking, when you are looking on ebay and you see flutes that give a model year like, "New 2006" Don't buy. Or you see multiple listings for the same flute type, Don't buy. colored flutes, Don't buy. Any listing from China, don't buy. If you see one that looks nice, doesn't fit any of the issues above, but it doesn't say what Brand/Manufacturer it is, Don't buy. Otherwise, send a message to that person and ask them how the pads are, tell them if they don't know, to take it to their nearest band instrument repairman and ask him to look at the pads, and play a high C chromatically down to low C. It doesn't cost anything to have them Test drive it for you. Sometimes you CAN most certainly get a decent flute off Ebay. The high end professional models are most likely the best. Student flutes are called student flutes, not because what they have a B foot, or a Split E, or a D roller, , it's becuase they are made less expensive because children are often very careless with their instrument. Repair jobs on the more expensive models cost more than on the less expensive. Thus you have Student Models. Intermediate is a "step-up" in sturdiness because older students take more care, professional models are the best quality metals because professionals are EXTRA CAREFUL with their flutes and hardly EVER ding or bend them. As far as how good of a used, brand name student model you can get on Ebay, it's a stroke of luck, but it happens more than you think. Most people selling instruments on Ebay pick them up at estate sales, or are pawn brokers and no nothing about instruments. If you find a music shop selling instruments on Ebay, it COULD, not always, but COULD be because the item is not of qood quality and they can't sell it in the store. And then there are some who have a flute from where ever they get it, their kid had it, they had it when they were kid, etc...., and know nothing about how much that particular flute should cost and so over charge or WAY undercharge. Do your flute research, then go hunting on Ebay.
Now as to why you can't get C1 on your flute.... You said you were cramping. It sounds like you have alot of leaks. Yes, taking into account that you have a different flute than before, it may take some practicing to get used to that flutes personality, but what you describe is a the need for a new pad and adjustment job. NO FLUTE EVER should require more pressure on the keys than enough to close the holes. Like holding a butterfly enough so it won't fly away, but not enough to rip it's wings, pressure. If you have to squeeze to get a tone out, The pads may not be seated yet. You can check this your self by looking at the pads and seeing if there is an even impression of the tone hole all the way around the pad. No impression, not seated, not even impressions, pads need to be shimmed, or the keys are bent. Take it to a repairman. Seating pads is not expensive, but it could take up to a week depending on what method your repairman uses. DO NOT BEND THEM YOURSELF! Test each key by wiggling it side to side. There should be NO play in the key when you wiggle it. If there is, TAKE IT TO A REPAIRMAN. Otherwise, the pads are shot, or it needs adjusting or both. Another factor to your C1 issue is, common among beginners, BOTH C and C# keys must be held down at the same time. C is NEVER intended or supposed to be played without holding down C#. Just as if you wouldn't play an F without holding down the G key, or a low D without holding down the E key. That is why the C key is so tiny. You must use the pads on the second joint of your pinky to hold down C# too. Here's another test for leaks. Play starting at High C each note carefully listening for escaping air from the keys, or possibly feeling escaping air on your figers. The note at which you begin to have problems getting it to sound as good as the last... check the KEY before it. NOT THE NOTE< the KEY. That's the one that has the leak, not the key that you pressed to make that note. For instance, F. If C down to G is great and F is bad, don't check the G key, check the key that is above the F on the lower stack. Watch as you press the key you press to play F. The key before it goes down also. This is a key you don't put your fingers on. This is the one that is causing F to be bad and it has a leak. Watch as you press that key again and see if the F touches the tone hole before the key about above it. If it does, it needs to be adjusted. They should hit at the SAME time. This is called "Loss of Action" and needs to be fixed by someone with experience to get right. Same is true if you find the opposite happening. Also, lower notes, especially low D- C# require a more open embrouchure(mouth) and an air stream directed more into the embrouchure hole than across it. Higher notes require a more flattened lip and air more over the hole. Try lowering your chin for the low notes. Try turning your head peice a bit more inwards towards you. Try turning the foot joint until you find a more comfortable position for your pinky on those keys. There is NO rule that the embrouchure hole needs to line up exaclty with the keys, or that the rod on the foot needs to be exactly center of the D key. Very few professionals have their flutes put together this way. If your notes are a little flat or sharp, adjust how far in the head piece is in the tenon. There is no rule here either. This is how you tune a flute. The warmer a flute gets the richer it is, but sometimes you are playing a cold environment and you need to pull your head joint out a smidge. alway Always always tune your instrument. And most of all, whether your playing high notes or low notes, OPEN YOUR THROAT. Many beginners close up their throats in an effort to direct their air stream. Your mouth shape directs your air stream. Not your throat.
Sorry so long, but I wanted to get that out to all the beginners.
Good luck, all,
Amy
Now as to why you can't get C1 on your flute.... You said you were cramping. It sounds like you have alot of leaks. Yes, taking into account that you have a different flute than before, it may take some practicing to get used to that flutes personality, but what you describe is a the need for a new pad and adjustment job. NO FLUTE EVER should require more pressure on the keys than enough to close the holes. Like holding a butterfly enough so it won't fly away, but not enough to rip it's wings, pressure. If you have to squeeze to get a tone out, The pads may not be seated yet. You can check this your self by looking at the pads and seeing if there is an even impression of the tone hole all the way around the pad. No impression, not seated, not even impressions, pads need to be shimmed, or the keys are bent. Take it to a repairman. Seating pads is not expensive, but it could take up to a week depending on what method your repairman uses. DO NOT BEND THEM YOURSELF! Test each key by wiggling it side to side. There should be NO play in the key when you wiggle it. If there is, TAKE IT TO A REPAIRMAN. Otherwise, the pads are shot, or it needs adjusting or both. Another factor to your C1 issue is, common among beginners, BOTH C and C# keys must be held down at the same time. C is NEVER intended or supposed to be played without holding down C#. Just as if you wouldn't play an F without holding down the G key, or a low D without holding down the E key. That is why the C key is so tiny. You must use the pads on the second joint of your pinky to hold down C# too. Here's another test for leaks. Play starting at High C each note carefully listening for escaping air from the keys, or possibly feeling escaping air on your figers. The note at which you begin to have problems getting it to sound as good as the last... check the KEY before it. NOT THE NOTE< the KEY. That's the one that has the leak, not the key that you pressed to make that note. For instance, F. If C down to G is great and F is bad, don't check the G key, check the key that is above the F on the lower stack. Watch as you press the key you press to play F. The key before it goes down also. This is a key you don't put your fingers on. This is the one that is causing F to be bad and it has a leak. Watch as you press that key again and see if the F touches the tone hole before the key about above it. If it does, it needs to be adjusted. They should hit at the SAME time. This is called "Loss of Action" and needs to be fixed by someone with experience to get right. Same is true if you find the opposite happening. Also, lower notes, especially low D- C# require a more open embrouchure(mouth) and an air stream directed more into the embrouchure hole than across it. Higher notes require a more flattened lip and air more over the hole. Try lowering your chin for the low notes. Try turning your head peice a bit more inwards towards you. Try turning the foot joint until you find a more comfortable position for your pinky on those keys. There is NO rule that the embrouchure hole needs to line up exaclty with the keys, or that the rod on the foot needs to be exactly center of the D key. Very few professionals have their flutes put together this way. If your notes are a little flat or sharp, adjust how far in the head piece is in the tenon. There is no rule here either. This is how you tune a flute. The warmer a flute gets the richer it is, but sometimes you are playing a cold environment and you need to pull your head joint out a smidge. alway Always always tune your instrument. And most of all, whether your playing high notes or low notes, OPEN YOUR THROAT. Many beginners close up their throats in an effort to direct their air stream. Your mouth shape directs your air stream. Not your throat.
Sorry so long, but I wanted to get that out to all the beginners.
Good luck, all,
Amy