New flute

Flute History and Instrument Purchase

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beka2525
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:37 pm

New flute

Post by beka2525 »

I have recently picked up the flute again after about 7 years on and off (piano is my main instrument) and will be auditioning for SDSU for my last 2 years in 6 months and need a new flute. I've had a selmer for all this time and tried out an open hole jupiter today(don't know which model) and I couldn't even get out some of the notes. My hands are very small and I've never played on an open hole flute in my life. Should I go for a closed hole? My budget is about $1500 and under, i just need something to last me throughout college. Thanks

fluttiegurl
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Post by fluttiegurl »

In the time I have been teaching, I have never had a student who physically could not play on an open hole flute. I have had several who claimed their hands were too small, but they all seemed to work out over time. The biggest issue is hand position and making the adjustment. With that said, open holes are not a required thing for players on any level. I tend to lean toward them because that is the norm where I am located and most universities that I deal with more or less require them for incoming students. One university teacher even goes to the point to not allow majors to play on anything lower than handmade past a certain point (this is not a conservatory).

There are some decent closed hole flutes on the market. The one that comes to mind is the Yamaha 421 (which Fluteworld has in your price range). This flute is pretty much the same as the 481. Keep in mind that there are better flutes, but this particular one comes standard without the option of open holes. You could get a much better flute for the $.

My advice is to try as many flutes out as you can. For now, used plugs in the holes so that you can get an idea of what the flute should sound like, and don't stress so much sbout not being able to play without the plugs. Take them out on your own time. You may also want to consider a flute with an offset G.

fluteguy18
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Post by fluteguy18 »

DITTO

open holes are indeed an adjustment, and I have known VERY few people who could instantly play an open hole flute without any adjustment time. It took me about 2 days to make the adjustment, but that is just me.

If you are going to playing at the University, then I personally recommend the open holes [some pieces you might learn will require techniques that wont work without openholes, and the open holes can help shading/tuning of certain notes if you use them correctly]. But, closed holes are just as legitimate, and if you feel closed holes are the way to go, then by all means, go that way.

If you do have small hands, then I would definately look into getting a flute with an offset G key. That could be the solution to the adjustment to open holes if you choose that route.

I would contact the flute professor you are going to be working with, and ask him/her what he/she thinks.

As for flutes and your budget. I personally recommend looking at some used flutes. While you can get decent new flutes for that price range, you can find MUCH better used instruments in that same price range. I recommend doing some research [the FAQ thread on this board is a good place to start] and look up different flute companies, and the flute models they produce. If you can, I recommend trying to go to some conventions to try some flutes out.

Then, you can start shopping smartly. If you dont have any inhibitions about buying a used flute, [or at least browsing the market], then you can certainly find decent handmade flutes in that pricerange. [They wont be the upper models of that specific company, but lower model handmade certainly trumps upper model machine made flutes in my opinion]. I know that you can certainly find the Muramatsu EX flute for about $1200-1500 used. And that is quite a nice instrument in my opinion.

Just try things out. Dont be afraid to try things outside your pricerange [because you might be able to find the same thing used and in your price range]. And, dont get too caught up on cosmetics. If the tarnished used flute plays circles around the shiny new flute, then I would go for the tarnished flute and get it cleaned. A girl in my flute studio made the mistake of buying a flute because it was pretty. She spent $6,000 on a handmade Pearl flute because it was pretty, even though a slightly cheaper [and "less pretty" because it wasn't gold plated] flute worked better for her. :roll:

beka2525
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:37 pm

Post by beka2525 »

Thanks for all the advice. When I did try out the open hole my fingers were having trouble adjusting and I know I just needed some practice and getting used to it. I would much rather purchase and open hole. I haven't been able to find a muramatsu ex for my price range on the net yet. Have any of you tried a Yamaha 461H? It's $1600 on flute world and I would like to have a b footjoint which it has. I emailed the flute professor at the school and she recommened a Pearl or Powell but the prices are pretty high. Anyways Thanks you guys!

fluttiegurl
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Post by fluttiegurl »

Look at the Pearl 665. It is a plated flute, but I have had wonderful experiences with them. Don't get hung up on the solid silver thing. If that is a concern, I believe the 765 series starts at around $1600.

As for the Yamaha, some love them, but I have found that the 400 level flutes just don't do much for me (I believe this has been addressed somewhere recently). I recommended the 400 series closed hole as an option for closed holes. Now that you are leaning toward an open hole flute, I would look at others as well.

Consider playing several before buying. You should find that te fist ones you play are considerably better than your current flute, but take your time and try many before you buy.

One other thing, I know there are very varried opinions on the Sonare flutes, but they are somewhat an alternative to the expensive Powells due to the handmade Powell headjoint. I have some reservations about the flute, but it is worth taking a look at. I have also heard that they have been redesigned in the past year or so.

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Phineas
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Post by Phineas »

I own the Pearl 665 Quantz. I would definitely put this flute WAY above the 400 series Yamaha. I would actually compare it more closely to the Yamaha 500 series.

I tried the 765, and did not hear or feel much of a difference to justify the extra cost, except for the C# D# roller on the low end.

Just for the record, I prefer the silverclad/plated body over the solid silver body. Main because the silverclad bodies tend to have a brighter sound than the solid silver ones generally.

As fare as other brands like Sonare, Amadeus, Azumi and other hybred types, I have my view on those. For the money, you can usually do a little better! is the use in having a Powell headjoint on a mediocre body! I have the same opinion about the Amadeus which has a Haynes headjoint on an ok body. For just a little more money, you could get a Jupiter 700 series, Yamaha 500 series, Trevor James, Emerson, Miyazawa, Sankyo, Brio etc.... and get the real deal with a cool body with great action!!

Just my .02 USD :D

Phineas

beka2525
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:37 pm

Post by beka2525 »

What would you suggest above the Pearl 665 series Phineas? I'm willing to pay $1500-1600. I want to get the most out of my money but I'm kind of limited to play on too many flutes because of the area I live in. If I buy online I will have a 10 day trial period so no worries. Thanks for all your help...I feel like such a newbie at the flute because I've never had an actual flute teacher till recently. there's so much to learn!

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Phineas
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Post by Phineas »

Beka

There it a Pearl665 Quantz Coda that has a 10k Gold Lipplate, and the C#/D# rollers.

Here are a few others in your price range.

Jupiter 711(Maybe the 911)
Brio B1 Series
Trevor James Cantabile Series

These are my personal opinions, your milage may vary!!!!!!
I think the Pearl 665 is the best deal going right now. Pearl calls it a Professional model, although most people consider it intermediate. This is not important to me, I have made my share of money playing it. When I was out shopping for flutes, I was considering buying a Jupiter 711 which at the time was 300 dollars more than the Pearl. Also, Pearl had a bad reputation and quality issues. Then I went to the summer NAMM show in Indianapolis. Pearl and LA SAX shared the same booth. After spending 2 hours playing on different Pearl models, I simply fell in love with this one. I found out later that I could get it for even less than the Jupiter! That winter, I bought it.

I am telling you this story to make a point. With in a price range, personal preference over shadows price. Out of all of the brands I mentioned/tried in the above list, I like the Pearl 665 Quantz the best. It just so happens it is the lowest cost one on my list. This is why it is SO important that you take the time to try out as many instruments as you can to make a choice. There is no way I could tell you that you will like any of these instruments.

As far a quality is concerned, you will not go wrong picking one of the brands I have listed. If you could go up to $2000, I would recommmend the Yamaha 500 series!

Either way, I hope I did not make things more confusing. It would be an injustice for me to say "YOU SHOULD BUY THIS ONE". That just would not be fair.

Phineas

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atoriphile
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Location: Washington, DC

Post by atoriphile »

fluteguy18 wrote:I know that you can certainly find the Muramatsu EX flute for about $1200-1500 used. And that is quite a nice instrument in my opinion.
Where is that? I've been searching myself for the last 6 months and haven't seen a used Muramatsu EX below $2000!

I would suggest buying a used flute. You should be able to get a used Yamaha 500 series for $1500.

fluteguy18
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Post by fluteguy18 »

I have seen them on ebay for about $1400, but they dont happen too awefully often. And they are used, and need a little work.

john101
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Joined: Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:11 am

Post by john101 »

What would concern me about a 2nd hand Muramatsu, is possible pad modifications. Muramatsu has it's own designed pads, which are not interchangeable with staubinger or other off the shelf pads. Many techs physically modify the key cups to fit staubinger pads. Some techs can do an excellent job of this, others might screw up the instrument. Also, if the flute is not stamped MA for Muramatsu America, it's gray market and you won't be able to find anyone to repad it with Muramatsu pads.

Another thing to consider is pad condition when evaluating the purchase of any brand professional flute. One of the reasons a pro flute is so good is the pad system. While a student flute pad job is $175 to $200, a pro flute pad job with Staubingers or Muramatsu pads will run $500+. The reason is labor. It takes a lot of hours to perfectly align hard pads on a pro flute. For student flutes the tech usually uses semi hard pads and shims the pad pretty close and then puts a drop of water on each pad, clamps it with a cloths pin and then bakes it in an oven until the pads inbed into the key cups. This results in the soft pads always sinking deeper and going out of alignment. So if the seller says, just repadded, Ask by who and get a copy of the receipt so you can verify what kind of pad job it was.

John

BTW, if you can find a good Muramatsu EX, go for it. I recently got a new DS and it's incredible.

beka2525
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 4:37 pm

Post by beka2525 »

I did get a chance to play on a peal 665 and yamaha 421. It seemed easier to play on the yamaha..I'm still deciding if I should get the pearl 665 or the yamaha 500 series. btw thanks for the help everyone!

john101
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Aug 01, 2007 10:11 am

Post by john101 »

You should contact fluteworld or one of the other big flute stores to get a 5 day trial on both the Yamaha 500 and the Pearl 665. You really can't compare the Yamaha 400 series to the 500. They are very different instruments. The 500 series has a handcut EC headjoint. The 400 series is still a student flute and may play easier than the 500 series or the Pearl, but may not have the dynamics.

Here is a great link, where Phineas explains a few thing about the EC headjoint.
http://www.fluteland.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=2203

John

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