Question Re. Playing Open-Hole Flute

[fibrochick]

Hi...I'm trying out a Pearl 505 open-hole flute with a B-flat foot joint. I have not used either an open-hole or a B-flat footjoint before. Because of the way you have to place your fingers on the keys on the main part and on the footjoint, it seems like I want to slant the flute down toward the floor than I typically do. Is this normal? I play in our community concert band, and I notice one other flutist with an open-hole flute also slants his flute down to the floor more than typical. Should this be the case?

Also, I fractured my right wrist once so it is not quite as flexible as it used to be. I never have a problem playing a closed-hole flute with a C footjoint, but my wrist feels awkward with this flute...like maybe I'm having to stretch awkwardly when playing low C. Is this something I will get used to?

Thanks so much for any advice!

[pied_piper]

Flutes typically have a C foot or B foot. The Bb foot is extremely rare. Pearl flutes can have a B foot, not a Bb foot. The "slant" or playing position of the flute really has nothing to do with whether it has a C or B foot. The additional length of a B foot adds only about 1.5 ounces to the total weight of the flute and is truly insignificant.

Now, every flute feels a little bit different regardless of whether it has a C or B foot. The same is true comparing closed hole to open hole and brand to brand. If your right wrist feels awkward, it may be that your hand position needs adjustment. It's also possible that particular flute simply does not suit your hand comfort zone. It takes several days or even weeks to get acclimated to a different flute because of the subtle differences in the position of certain keys (i.e. the RH pinky keys). The position of those keys may be why you feel as though you are stretching. Again though, this is more a difference of brands than a difference between C or B foot.

[fibrochick]

Thanks, Pied Piper. You are correct, it is a B footjoint rather than a B-flat footjoint. This is a step-up flute for me. I am used to a Gemeinhardt 2SP, so I guess it is going to feel different...especially covering the holes.

I haven't actually received the silicone plugs yet. I have ordered them, so I guess I really won't know how the whole thing feels until I receive them. Right now, the whole experience just feels very awkward. It seems to be a nice flute though. Guess I just need to take it one day (or one hole) at a time to learn to play it without the plugs.

Thanks for your input.

[EdThomas]

If you haven't already committed to this flute, explore a few more. It sounds to me like you have an in-line G, and that Pearl 505 model should be available with an offset G. I personally like the inline because my fingers are fine with it and I'm used to it. But if you are moving from a closed-hole flute to an inline open hole, your hands may have to adjust more than you care for, and an offset G can make a big difference.

[GregLee]

I have an open hole flute whose keys now have plugs. It's a cheap no-name flute from China, and it's not working real great for me, since the F doesn't want to sound. I don't know why -- I don't see a problem with the key closing. So, anyway, what are the odds, would you say, that if I take out the plugs, that would fix the problem with the F?

[fibrochick]

If you haven't already committed to this flute, explore a few more. It sounds to me like you have an in-line G, and that Pearl 505 model should be available with an offset G. I personally like the inline because my fingers are fine with it and I'm used to it. But if you are moving from a closed-hole flute to an inline open hole, your hands may have to adjust more than you care for, and an offset G can make a big difference.

Hi...Actually, the Pearl flute has offset G keys. I've been waiting for the silicone plugs to arrive, which they did today...but they seem too big for the Pearl flute. Can't get them in. I'm trying to freeze them so they make shrink up a little. IDK...No, I have not committed to this flute, so I might try a few more flutes before making the final purchase.

Thanks for your response.

[fluteguy18]

I would say the odds are almost zero. The problems you are experiencing sound like a combination between padding and regulation problems. Plugs only fill holes in the keys and don't change whether or not the flute is leaking around the tonehole (which is one of the primary causes for a poorly playing flute). Take it to a technician to have it looked over. There are simply so many variables that only a competent tech will be able to tell you what is wrong. Don't be surprised however if they refuse to work on it. Many imported instruments found online are often called an ISO (instrument shaped object). They often don't hold adjustments, are made of inferior materials, and are quickly converted into lamps.

[GregLee]

I would say the odds are almost zero. The problems you are experiencing sound like a combination between padding and regulation problems.

Thanks for replying. Yes, I've discovered that more finger pressure on "F" makes it sound, so I guess I have a leak. Removing the plug might change the pressure needed (but it could get worse, I guess). I don't know of any flute technicians in my vicinity, and anyhow, the flute only cost me $135. Maybe I'll try bending the key.

[pied_piper]

Maybe I'll try bending the key.

That would be a bad idea. Most leaks are caused by a faulty pad or key regulation out of adjustment. Bending a key without knowing the real source of the problem could make it worse and if you later take it to a flute technician, repairs could cost you more to undo your attempts at a repair.

[fluteguy18]

A bad idea indeed!

[GregLee]

Yes, I've discovered that more finger pressure on "F" makes it sound, so I guess I have a leak. Removing the plug might change the pressure needed (but it could get worse, I guess).

Well, I decided to go ahead and take out the plugs. It plays differently now -- it'll take getting used to. The "F" key that needed more finger pressure still does, but my first impression is that it is more like the other keys, now. So maybe it's better. At least it's no worse.

I found a web reference that says once you remove the plugs, the keys can be set lower to the chimneys. How do you do that?

[fluteguy18]

They're saying that you can reduce the venting. I'm not so sure it's a great idea myself, but if you want that to be done you need to take it to an adequate technician. Unless you're willing to take the risk of making mistakes and having them fixed at your expense I don't recommend anyone attempt any repairs on their own. The only exception to that is if you are seriously studying instrument repair in one form or another.

[GregLee]

They're saying that you can reduce the venting. I'm not so sure it's a great idea myself, but if you want that to be done you need to take it to an adequate technician.

The flute only cost $135. Shall I have my personal secretary locate an expert technician and arrange an appointment, then buzz my chauffeur to drive me over for a consultation?

[pied_piper]

Your sarcasm aside, there is a saying that you get what you pay for. If you spend only $135 for a flute, you can't expect it to perform like a $10,000 professional flute or even a $500 brand name student flute. Frankly, you probably would have been better off buying a used brand name flute from a local store that would guarantee your purchase.

All of the replies here are genuinely giving you good advice. Even a cheap no-name flute still has an intricate mechanism. If you truly want to take on doing your own repairs to this instrument, then you should at least invest enough time and effort into learning what you should or should not do to it. That is not something that anyone here can explain to you in a couple of messages.

That said, here is one thing that you can try that will not harm your no-name flute. Take a piece of a paper towel sheet (about 6x6 inches), fold it into a small pad (about 1"x1") and moisten it - not dripping wet but enough that if you squeeze it between your fingers, you see some water on the surface. Place it under the F key pad and close the key on the paper towel for about 15 or 20 seconds. That will moisten the pad a bit. Remove the paper towel, then take a couple pieces of string and tie them around the body, under the key rods, and across the F key. Don't make it super tight, but the string should be just tight enough to hold the F key completely closed with about the same pressure that you found makes the F play OK. Set it aside (not in the case) and let it dry overnight. The next day, see if the F is any easier to play.

[GregLee]

That said, here is one thing that you can try that will not harm your no-name flute.

Thanks for the interesting suggestion. The idea is to change the shape of the pad, I guess?

Actually, I think I may have solved my "F" key problem by removing the plugs from the keys. But I was intrigued by this idea that once the plugs are gone, the keys can be set lower to the chimneys. That's what I was asking about. I'm guessing it would make for easier playing, since less key excursion would be needed to close a hole.